HELPMEFIND PLANTS COMMERCIAL NON-COMMERCIAL RESOURCES EVENTS PEOPLE RATINGS
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Initial post
3 JUL 14 by
Smtysm
This really is a ravishing shot. I would love to have this rose. I hope someone in Australia's got it.
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If they have, I'll be peeved that it wasn't sent to the HRIAI Collection at Renmark!
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Well, if you are ever in Texas, give me a shout and you can have cuttings from this bush. This rose has done fairly well in our high heat and humidity. It does really well those few months we have cool nights.
Bob [at] VintageRosery.com
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Aaargh no, our quarantine laws are even tighter than yours! With good reason. And posting cuttings in either direction can be an extremely expensive (second mortgage) exercise for both sender and recipient, even if the recipient knew nothing about it. Thanks for the offer, anyway!
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This is the climbing sport of `Old Blush'. The flowers are identical and like the shrub form, it blooms 11 months out of the year. It will grow 20' canes in one season, so be prepared with a sturdy structure! The growth is very vigorous, and it will need to be selectively pruned if you want it to look mannerly. Or you can just let it go for a truly wild look!
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I wish mine bloomed that often. It's been pretty disappointing in that respect for me. It's been a vigorous grower but has hardly bloomed for me at all, which I know it should in my climate and conditions (San Antonio, TX). Even in spring, I only get a few scant blooms. This year, I had 3, last year, none. I won't shovel-prune mine because it's serving a function as a privacy screen on a fence, so I have come to appreciate the greenery of it, and not expect anything in the way of blooms from it. I only wish I had chosen another more floriferous rose for the job.
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Initial post
19 MAR 03 by
Unregistered Guest
I try to seal my canes when I prune and deadhead my roses; but, occasionally, worm borers get in the cane. What spray is it I need to get to spray my roses for this? I had some several years ago and can't remember what it was? I sprayed it on at the start of the season and wasn't bothered by the borers the rest of the season.
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Rather than a synthetic chemical solution, you might consider applying beneficial nematodes to your gardens once a year. For about $20 (US) you can purchase enough to cover 2000 - 3000 sq. ft. They continue to kill insects all year, reproducing again and again.
Besides killing all stem borers, they also kill thrips, cucumber beetles, grubs and over 250 other bad bugs. We have been applying beneficial nematodes to our gardens for six years now and have never seen stem borers.
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#2 of 5 posted
27 MAY 05 by
Terre
Which nematodes do you apply, are there specific one for specific pests? How are they applied? Thanks, Terre A.
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#4 of 5 posted
31 MAY 05 by
Unregistered Guest
Good question. There are different types. We have been using sub-strains of Steinernematidae and Heterorhabditatid families. These are bundled together in a single package to provide diversity with one application.
Ask your supplier for a list of the specific pests the Nematode speciies they sell will control.
Any good organic nursery should carry beneficial nematodes. You could mail order them, but the freight (they need to be overnighted in an insulated cool pack) is normally more than the bugs.
Nematodes are typically applied using a hose-end sprayer. The water is simply a dispersal agent to deliver them to the root zone.
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#5 of 5 posted
1 JUN 05 by
Terre
Thank you so much for this reply! This is exactly the kind of expert information I come to this site to find! I was unaware of the nematode solution before now and am very rewarded by this education. Sincerely, Terre Ashmore
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Roses which do not have sufficient foliage are susceptible to sunburn. This weakens the plant's resistance to boring insects. You may want to take a look at which cultivars which do not have enough foliage to protect the canes and cut out the infected portions of the plant and remove the insects from your garden.
Good luck with your roses.
Smiles,
Lyn helpmefind.com
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Initial post
18 JUN 03 by
Anonymous-797
I live on Florida's west coast, in the Tampa Bay area. We have a typical summer pattern of afternoon rains. Right now, the leaves on my rosebushes are turning yellow. Is this due to the increased water? If not, what do I need to do to correct this problem?
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#1 of 3 posted
24 JUN 03 by
Unregistered Guest
I live in Lake Alfred and have the same problem. Some of the yellow can be from to much rain and this is probably black spot because the roses are not drying off by nightime and if you know roses you should never water later then in the morning. Another reason is because they are growing new leaves and others naturally die off. Hope this helps!
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There are many causes for yellow leaves. Heat stress, water stress, salt stress, phytotoxicity, nutrient deficiencies, nutrient toxicity, disease and insects all cause yellow leaves.
You mentioned afternoon rains. Is there good drainage? Water displaces air in the soil. With the high summer heat, the roots need to support rapid transpiration right now. If they are too wet, that won't happen and leaves will yellow. Other symptoms...are your blooms 'balling'? Do the center of your canes appear soft and brown?
Another common cause is phytotoxicity, or 'soffocation' caused by spraying. When chemicals clog leaf pores, plant tissues cannot transpire moisture and gases quick enough. They cease producing chlorophyll. The cell walls deteriorate and the leaves turn yellow and fall off.
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#3 of 3 posted
14 JUL 03 by
Unregistered Guest
I live in SW Fla, Punta Gorda. We have been getting alot of rain lately and I've noticed the leaves on my roses are turning yellow and I have black spots on the leaves. I have been removing the yellowing leaves and I've noticed they also fall off on their own. My roses seem to be improving by removing the yellow leaves. I still have quite a few blooms. This is my first time growing roses so I'm learning as I go. I have quite a few varities about 8 bushes. My concern was the black spots and what is causing them. Otherwise they are doing great.
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