HELPMEFIND PLANTS COMMERCIAL NON-COMMERCIAL RESOURCES EVENTS PEOPLE RATINGS
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Initial post
28 APR 09 by
nurene
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I've had this rose for about 12 years. It started out on my balcony and did very well, for a balcony rose. When transplanted to the garden 7 years ago - it's growth exploded. It is very healthy and is covered with flowers the whole summer. Besides giving it manure and a bit of bonemeal and marl, I don't have to take care of it at all. After the first heavy blooming period - it continues - but more sparsely right up to November - December (depending on the weather). Mine is about 120 cm high and 185 cm wide.
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Your rose may be 'Our Rosy Carpet' rather than 'Rosy Carpet', which is a single-petal rose of similar plant type.
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Initial post
27 JUN 13 by
nurene
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What is this old rose? Found in my garden. Indestructible!
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I have a very similar rose to identify (see photo).
I think mine might be Parkdirektor Riggers, but yours doesn't seem to bloom in clusters?
Does it have scent?
Mine looks indestructible, too. Does anybody know it?
I greatly appreciate our effort, because I'm new to roses but already hooked.
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The Montreal Botanical Garden recommends this rose as resistant to blackspot, powdery mildew, and rust:
http://www2.ville.montreal.qc.ca/jardin/en/info_verte/roses/cultivars.htm
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#1 of 11 posted
1 APR 12 by
nurene
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mine got BS in it's 3 year - I pruned back a lot - but was disappointed.
Does anyone know what one can do about BS without using chemical poisons?
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Nurene, any recommendations for any disease resistance mean very little, unless they come from areas very close to you. I forget the total number of DIFFERENT types of black spot they have identified around the world, but we have FIVE different black spot races here in the US. For me to state a rose is black spot resistant in my California garden means virtually nothing to someone gardening across the country from me because we have different types of black spot. Few roses are as resistant to one type as they are the others.
Unless someone close to where you live promotes the particular rose as being resistant to the disease you're hoping to avoid, you can't honestly expect the rose to resist it in your garden. Add the special circumstances of your particular micro climate and even those which are resistant to your specific strain of black spot may not be able to resist it.
Many roses aren't as resistant to disease as they eventually can be when they are immature or have been pruned severely. They require decent culture, conditions and proper nourishment for their immune systems to function well, just as we do. Personally, I wouldn't prune any wood off the plant because of black spot, but remove the foliage instead. Many roses store nutrients in their canes for use later. By severely pruning them, you may cause them to be malnourished until they are able to replace those stored nutrients. In your harsher climate, where there can easily be much wood lost due to extreme cold or heavy snow damage, and more severe pruning required to winter protect them, you can much more easily experience disease susceptibility resulting from compromised immune system reactions.
There are a number of other rose growers here from The Netherlands who should be able to offer suggestions for which roses have resisted black spot for them there. Their experiences would be much more valid for you because they would be far more likely to be battling the specific type of black spot you are likely to experience. Good luck. I hope it helps.
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Great advice Kim! I live in NC and with our hot humid summers, the blackspot battles are ongoing for many of my roses. Modern roses definitely seem more susceptible to it than the OGR's. Some shrug it off if it comes while others need petting. I don't grow this rose specifically but totally agree that it's generally a better idea to trim off and remove infected foliage but leave the canes alone, especially during growing season. I've heard or read plenty of anecdotal evidence about natural or non-chemical BS controls but have had poor results without chemical treatments from time to time, whether spraying or using a soil compound in addition to good cultural practices.
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An example I can give you I've seen repeatedly here in Southern California is with Iceberg. You can force Iceberg to black spot by keeping it too severely pruned. If allowed to grow to the size the plant wants to be, the characteristic mildew on the peduncles is minimized dramatically, and black spot is virtually eliminated in many cases. Unfortunately, too often people whack the dickens out of them to get rid of the mildew and particularly the saw fly larvae (Rose Slugs) instead of using bacterial or other organic solutions. In these climates and with that particular rose here, eliminating the stored wood by removing so much wood unnecessarily triggers many more disease issues than would normally be the case.
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"Modern roses definitely seem more susceptible to it than the OGR's."
In my experience, I think this statement may be too much of a generalization. One of the reasons it seems like OGRs are more disease resistant to us, is that the OGRs that were more disease prone have dropped out of commerce, so the ones that are left and still available are the roses that have stood the test of time in many parts of the world.
Of course, there are other reasons, but this is just something to think about.
Smiles,
Lyn
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In many cases, that's true. Another reason is the OGRs which have survived, have been "rediscovered" in climates more suited to them. You won't find surviving, self sustaining, old bushes of La Reine in many areas of Southern California because it is so prone to rust and black spot in these climates. You can find old Teas and Chinas because they're suited to the humidity and heat. As with "natural, indigenous plants", they survive where they are best suited.
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Very good points Kim and Lyn. And, of course, there are many great selections of disease resistant modern roses.
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#8 of 11 posted
3 APR 12 by
nurene
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Thank you very much Rupert for the good advice.
I will see how it goes this year. The untimely frost really got to the roses (we don't do much winter protection here, since it doesn't usually get that cold and certainly not so late. - everything was already swelling and getting ready to come), so there is a lot of dead wood. I'll cut that back and maybe th frost was good for the BS?!
nurene
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"Good" for the black spot in that lack of nutrients can cause the plant to be more susceptible. I don't have any information that freezes kill off the fungi. It should be interesting to see how your roses do after this. Please observe and report back to the comments section here. It can be very valuable information to share. Thank you!
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#10 of 11 posted
26 JUN 13 by
nurene
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I had hardly any black spot after that heavy late freeze-up. I did nothing else to the roses, just good organic fertilizer and compost. So maybe the frost DID help?
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It's entirely possible the freezes helped, though it is also probably as much possible that the organic fertilizer helped bolster the plant's immune system as well as foster beneficial fungi growth which helped keep the black spot in check. Whatever it was, I'm glad it's working!
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Initial post
10 JUN 13 by
nurene
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My cousin received 2 of these roses in big pots in Minnesota (zone 4!) We read here zones 8 and warmer, but Ping Lim seems to test his things in Minn and it was bought here.
So: does it have to stay in a pot and be brought in in the winter or can it be planted in the ground and warmly covered in the winter?
Any experiences or advice would be welcome.
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