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'AROlaqueli' rose Reviews & Comments
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This lasts a week in a vase and it has a bud and open bloom now in Silicon Valley in almost December. An update: It is August and we have had months of water restrictions and lots of hot weather and this is in bloom almost all the time. I have had it for a few years and the extra care has rewarded me abundantly. It has a wonderful fragrance. The bloom looks delicate but really the plant and blooms are robust.
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Thank you, Anita, really appreciate your evaluation of how long a bloom lasts in the vase. I find that blooms which last long in the vase, can tolerate extreme temp. Many folks in zone 5 grow Lagerfeld successfully. Does Lagerfeld prefer clay or sandy/loamy soil as own-root? Thanks for any info.
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Straw, my Lagerfelds are planted in both a red clay type of soil and also very sandy. The clay ones were slower to get started but now are doing as well as the sandier.
The color for me started out white for the first couple of blooms, then a lovely shade of lavender (blue undertones), showing none of the pink that the buds had. Compared to a "Singin' the Blues, which seems to have some red in it, it is quite a true lavender.
The scent is just starting to develop so it's still quite mild but last week I could smell it in the vase on my desk rather than having to bury my nose in it. The scent is terrific to me and the big blooms stayed beautiful in the vase for over a week.
It doesn't seem to have the big shiny leave that some of mine have but also not even a hint of blackspot no matter the weather conditions. I planted them with non-GMO alfalfa-fed horse manure compost.
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Thank you for the info. of Lagerfeld does equally well in clay vs. sand. I have Kordes Bluegirl rose in a loamy & composted leaves soil and it did great .. then I moved it to more clay, and that was downhill. That Bluegirl was grafted on Dr.Huey. Bluegirl has a stingy reputation so I suspect the "stingy ones" need more loamy soil.
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Question for Lavenderlace: You have 2 Lagerfeld, which one survived your Texas winter better? Thank you. The one in red clay, or the one in sandy/loamy soil? In my experience with 2 blue roses: Kordes Deep Purple and Blue Girl, both went downhill when I moved from loamy & fluffy soil into my heavy & alkaline clay. In contrast, certain Austin roses and most French Romantica do better in my alkaline clay, than in loamy potting soil.
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The one in sandy soil (slightly red clay) on the west side got the north and west winds and that's the one that I think is finished. Died to the ground and hasn't come back.
The one on the east side getting the morning sun and 3/4 northern exposure is covered in blooms now and about three feet tall and wide.
One is in a bed on the south side and is totally protected from the north winds but the soil had a lot of clay in it. It didn't really take off last year, just an occasional bloom and not much growth. This year has a few blooms so far at about 2 1/2 tall. Looks much thriftier this year so have high hopes for him!
One in a bed on the south side in sandy soil is nearly 6 feet tall and is covered in blooms. The entire top is covered in blooms or I would be tempted to prune down because he's way too big for his location!
Hope that helps, all were planted last summer! I was afraid that he would fade too much in our heat but these spring blooms are really pretty, with a darker center.
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On your most vigorous spot for Lagerfeld: "One in a bed on the south side in sandy soil is nearly 6 feet tall and is covered in blooms." Your having many roses of one variety help to determine what's the best location & soil for a particular rose. You are a big blessing for HMF & and folks like me !! THANK YOU.
Since Lagerfeld has Kordes genetics and Angel Face, it likes sandy/loamy soil, like my Kordes Deep Purple, plus full-sun location (Angel Face is known to be heat-tolerant). It's too late for me to change my order, I just have to put Lagerfeld in a loamy & sunny spot. When folks say, "this rose does fantastic for me .." I wish they would specify their zone, type of soil, and the amount of rainfall .. like Dave and Deb Boyd, who set a great example in their HMF profile.
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Thank you so much also for all of your help! I think that he'll be worth it for you with those big blooms, gorgeous in the vase. I didn't get the impression that he loves tons of water either, unlike some of my Austins!
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Lavenderlace: You helped me a lot by listing the performance of your many Lagerfelds. You wrote: "The one on the east side getting the morning sun and 3/4 northern exposure is covered in blooms now and about three feet tall and wide. One is in a bed on the south side ... soil had a lot of clay in it. It didn't really take off last year, just an occasional bloom and not much growth. This year has a few blooms so far at about 2 1/2 tall."
I have the same experience: Roses that like it loamy are VERY STUNT in clay. And the drought-tolerant roses prefer full-sun, they are stunt in partial shade. Thanks to your assessment of Lagerfeld, finally realize that my wimpy own-root Sharifa Asma needs more sun & faster-drainage & loamier soil.
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THANK YOU for all of your data and expertise!
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Lavenderlace & anyone else: you have many blue and purple roses as own-roots. What is your most vigorous & tallest blue rose? What is your most vigorous purple rose? I'm looking for more vigorous blue/purple roses. Angel Face is wimpy and both the own-root and the grafted died through my zone 5a winter. Bluegirl (grafted on Dr.Huey) died this past winter. I have been admiring Lavender Crush rose .. and I'm hoping to find more vigorous blue/purple rose.
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I have Neptune which gets to five feet easily; in my climate I have to keep it down to 6 feet to about 2 1/2 or 3 feet. In in Northern Calif. ( San Francisco Bay area ) where Winters are usually in the forties and Summers occasionally get into the nineties. Neptune is quite fragrant and often has clusters with the center bud blooming first. It is disease resistant and no aphid problems. For me it blooms more than Big Purple. It is usually blooming all Summer. I'm an organic gardener.
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Anita, thank you for the info. on Neptune. Looks like the grafted-on-Dr.Huey is more vigorous than own-root, so I'll order that from Regan nursery next year, along with Young Lycidas (thanks for your input too).
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Anita, that's good to know that Neptune is vigorous! Mine aren't old enough to comment on.
Straw, I have a lot of lavender but the tallest would be Lagerfeld, though I did have one die to the ground after our unusual cold. Great in the vase and very nice fragrance.
Very vigorous here, but hopefully won't get too tall, would be my favorite Twice In a Blue Moon. Planted last year, most about three feet tall now, in sandy soil that has a tinge of red clay in it. Planted on the south side and was one of the first to bloom in late February. Long lasting in the vase. Can't say how long the blooms last on the bush because I love the fragrance so much that I cut every bloom!
The color is a flat lavender here while Lagerfeld is a bit bluer, plus has that nicer darker center.
Singin' the Blues is just doing fantastic here and is supposed to be on the taller side. I'm not sure if this one goes to your zone but survived our arctic front in the open, no walls for wind protection. Great foliage and stayed green all winter. Covered in blooms that are a bit pinker lavender but they age to a lovely antique lavender. I almost didn't buy this one because I thought that it wouldn't be able to take the heat! Planted full sun in sandy soil and has a strong fragrance. Good in the pot too.
I only have lavenders that are rated highly for fragrance so that leaves a lot of them out. Violet's Pride is a new one to everybody but have only heard good things. Mine are in the pot with lots of blooms and clean medium green foliage.
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Lavenderlace: fantastic review that will benefit anyone interested in blue/lavender roses. Thank you !! I finally understand why Neptune (blue) is better as grafted on Dr.Huey. Multiflora lineage is where the blue and lavender shade originated, and multiflora prefers loamy soil. So for the blue or lavender rose to thrive in dense & heavy clay, they are best grafted on Dr.Huey, which is woody/chunky enough to go through hard & compact clay. Dr. Huey is a deep & chunky-tap-root system, reminds me of dandelion roots, which are invasive in heavy clay.
Multiflora root is a thin & cluster type of root which can't go through heavy clay. I gave up on own-root Baby Fauraux (violet), so wimpy & pale in clay, even with tons of rain.
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Straw, thanks for that! I'll make sure that Neptune goes to sandier spots when they leave their pots.
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Please don't knock the dandelions. Besides being pretty, they are feeding my humble bumbles.
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Dandelions with its taproot system is EXTREMELY invasive in my heavy clay. I have a large bleeding blister in my palm now since I dug up at least 100 dandelions. Neighbors pay lawn-care professional $300 per year to get rid of dandelions. If a lawn here is not fertilized, there's more dandelions than grass, and neighbors curse you for your dandelions infecting their lawn. Dandelions wasn't a problem when I lived in acidic clay. Didn't see much dandelions in loamy soil Connecticut either.
Lavenderlace: Neptune as own-root died on zone 6b winter, and zone 5b winter. The real test of how vigorous an own-root is: If it can survive my rock-hard clay, and my zone 5a winter, with -20 F, and windchill factor of -30 F, then our spring flash flood.
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Lavenderlace: Is Lagerfeld the most drought-tolerant rose in your garden? What are your roses that bloom without tons of water? Thanks. Lagerfeld is in an ideal-wet spot, which I want to save for glossy-foliage water-hog Barbara Streisand or Nahema. I want to move Lagerfeld to a drier & uphill spot. Also Lagerfeld's scent improved after I piled up black-clay on top. I meant to keep his canes from flopping down, by piling up clay, but that UP the scent drastically, from medium to super-strong.
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Oh, I wish mine were super strong! Mine have a good enough fragrance, but it varies in strength. It usually gets better in the vase though.
Regarding drought-tolerant for me, the ones that stand out are New Dawn, Belinda's Dream, Lemon Spice, Memorial Day, and Savannah. The first two don't get any water at all, the last three never seem to appreciate it!
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THANK YOU !! Almost bought Lemon Spice from RU's summer sale 2016, but I backed out due to its hardy to zone 7b, and I'm in zone 5a. Your Savannah has dark-green & shiny & LARGE foliage similar to Betty White, and my Betty White can go for more than a week without watering, in full-sun. Just checked: Savannah has many petals, but it's a shallow-cup compared to your Amazing Grace. The deep-cup are the ones that need tons of water & potassium to force the petals open .. versus the shallow-cup opens easily (like my drought-tolerant Christopher Marlowe & Mary Magdalene). Charles Darwin was a deep cup & over 100+ petals water-hog that was stingy unless I gave it high potassium & high phosphorus SOLUBLE fertilizer, despite my wet clay.
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Thank you!
Violet's Pride is another lavender that doesn't seem to need much water here. I have a tendency to give them too much and then they will drop some leaves. The foliage is much lighter than Savannah's though. Newly planted Lemon Spice as well as older did survive our arctic front in a less protected position than an older Lagerfeld, who did not.
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Thank you. I looked up Violet's Pride .. that's so pretty !! I give up on Heirloom rose (bunnies ate it to death this year) .. own-root Heirloom was MUCH HEALTHIER than the grafted-on-Dr.Huey, but own-root Heirloom didn't survive my zone 5a winter. Another deep-cup is Big Purple .. that one needs at least 5-gallon of water per week, plus SOLUBLE fertilizer for best blooms. So I appreciate side-way photos of blooms, that way I can tell if it's deep-cup (water-hog), or shallow-cup (less need for water & fertilizer).
Here are the deep-cup roses that were REALLY STINGY until I gave it more water & soluble sulfate of potash & gypsum: Crown P. Magareta, Lady of Shalott, Charles Darwin. Here are the deep-cup & high-center hybrid-tea that are stingy unless given more water & soluble fertilizer: Big purple & Barbra Streisand. The deep-cup blooms last long in the vase, but need to be fed with solid minerals. Lagerfeld is deep-cup but less petals, so it's not bad. Lagerfeld finally have thick & strong stems that don't flop over, after I piled up black-clay & tons of rain.
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OWN-ROOT Lagerfeld does much better after I moved it from full-sun to partial shade. No more floppy and faded !! The color is deeper, and the plant is much healthier (no more blackspots in hot & dry). Blue & purple roses have multiflora genetics: low-thorn, prefer cool & wet climate and loamy soil.
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Straw, how much shade can he take in your area? Mine are getting afternoon shade and it's not enough in our heat. They're vigorous enough, just the flowers have become very unattractive compared to spring!
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After being moved, mine gets only 4 hours of late evening sun. Now it has 7 buds, I cut one bloom for the vase. The scent is more intense with clay & peat moss, zero sand.
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Oh wow, that's very helpful, thank you. I didn't realize that he could take that much shade. The spring lavender blooms had a nice fragrance that actually got better in the vase but these summer white ones are pretty sad!
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Lavenderlace, I moved Lagerfeld. Now is in less than 4 hours of evening sun. All canes are strong & upright as 3rd-year-own-root. It's having 10 buds right now, and color is deeper in shade. Also more petals as the bush matures. It's doing much better in partial shade than full-sun.
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Reply
#30 of 30 posted
9 NOV 20 by
 HubertG
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Having seen an own-root 'Lagerfeld' at a local nursery, I just bought it having read the file and recommendations here. Thanks very much for an interesting discussion. My new rose has a bud on it - can't wait!
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An update of info:
LAGERFELD
(syn Starlight, AROlaqueli)
Grandiflora, Hybrid Tea.
Blooms are mauve, silvery lavender or purple blend, large to very large (average diameter 10-13 cm), full (30 petals) high-centred, borne in sprays of 5-15. Strong fragrance. Blooms in flushes throughout the season.
Bush is tall, upright and bushy, with medium foliage, medium-green and matte. Medium prickles, and globular, orange hips.
Height to 150 cm. Width up to 120 cm.
Bred by Jack E. Christensen, United States, 1986.
Introduced in the United States by Armstrong Nursery in 1986 as ‘Lagerfeld’.
Introduced in Australia by Unknown as ‘Lagerfeld.
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Initial post
25 MAY 13 by
goncmg
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A beautiful, delicate bloom with a beautiful, delicate, stoic lilac-grey-ash-white color. Thin leaves on a nearly thornless and strong in constitution but whispy-in-appearance plant. Similar in many traits to Lady X but more delicate and unlike X, fragrant. Classified as a GR, not sure that "fits" (blurry and ill-defined as that class IS)....this is more a delicate, fine-boned HT...........I wouldn't tell someone to grow this OVER Fragrant Plum, I would tell someone looking at this one to take a look at Melody Parfumee and see if that harsh red-purple color with MP would be acceptable.............looking at Lady X? Maybe a push. Sterling Silver is and has always been a GR actually and is still the one and only..............this one's angle would be, in my opinion, the way it would fit into a mixed border better than Plum the pillar or Neptune or X or Silver who are more bedding roses..............this is a good rose............but it may still in 2013 be ANYONE'S game when it comes to this color class...........if you are shopping lilac-silver-purple, really think about how you want to use it and what most appeals and accept that even in 2013 they are a still somewhat fussy, tempermental bunch..................
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#1 of 1 posted
29 MAY 13 by
Benaminh
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I have ALWAYS detected a medium strength fragrance from my Lady X plants, but maybe it just doesn't like your location. I do not group Fragrant Plum or Melody Parfumee in this color sub-category because of the red flush. They belong with the likes of Paradise, Angel Face, Patsy Cline, or Barbra Streisand. In the same way I wouldn't compare the coloring of Midas Touch with Peace. Sterling Silver IS a pretty color, but the flower form gets sloppy, and good luck finding a vigorous clone these days. Other alternatives would be Silver Spoon, Stainless Steel, or Silver Shadows. The best garden plant, flowering, color, and fragrance combination in this color class, IMHO, is the 1998 grandiflora 'Cologne' by McGredy--although it sometimes gets a reddish edge in bad weather--that is not the norm. Even though it has the best color, second place goes to Lagerfeld because of its ungainly growth habit. Lady X has the best exhibition flower form of them all, but despite a somewhat awkward growth habit and pink tint, it is still my favorite. The three previous SS are also worth growing, but their coloring is paler and/or pinker than Sterling Silver. Again, the only other rose worth growing with the exact same color as Sterling Silver would be Intermezzo.
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Initial post
5 MAR 10 by
Unregistered Guest
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Available from - Harper's Nursery
http://www.harpersnursery.com/ , 1830 E McKellips Rd, Mesa, AZ 85201
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