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Discussion id : 140-385
most recent 4 APR 23 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 4 APR 23 by Margaret Furness
I don't know the name of this daisy (planted in an "English cottage-style" garden by previous owners) but does anyone know if it is hostile / allelopathic to roses? It seems to me that there's more going on than competition for resources. Anyway it's coming out.
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Reply #1 of 2 posted 4 APR 23 by Lee H.
Why Margaret, that is obviously Osteospermum ecklonis, also known as Cape marguerite, African daisy, Van Staden's river daisy, Sundays river daisy, white daisy bush, blue-and-white daisy bush, star of the veldt is an ornamental plant that is native to South Africa. It is now regarded as a weed in parts of Australia, particularly Victoria and Western Australia.

And you too can sound this smart if you have the Picture This app, and a photograph of the plant :-)
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Reply #2 of 2 posted 4 APR 23 by Margaret Furness
Thank you! Trust the previous owners to plant a weed - they also planted Agapanthus.
I know about iNaturalist (they told me my tiny never-before-noticed beetles weren't beetles, but nymphs of the redbug pest).
Also the frog-listening app.
Aren't computers wonderful- when they work.
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Discussion id : 134-875
most recent 2 NOV 22 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 22 OCT 22 by cooleyedbabe
Depth to plant grafted roses? I have repeatedly read to plant the graft above the soil. Now to day I read from a prominant, respected rose grower/seller, to plant graft 2 " below the soil? Then I read an article here where a very highly respected rose expert says that nothing with roses is certain. They live to bewilder us. LOL! I'm beginning to believe that. So I'm very novice compared to most of you folks but would welcome any opinions/comments, etc.
Thank you, Jeri
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Reply #1 of 4 posted 22 OCT 22 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Seek local advice.

This depends on personal preference, climate and soil conditions.

If you garden in a colder climate, conventional wisdom is to bury them.

Keep in mind, not all roses are budded.
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Reply #2 of 4 posted 22 OCT 22 by Margaret Furness
And this, too: if the rose is one that will sucker on its own roots, I wouldn't put the bud union in the soil.
For those that don't, I think giving the scion (the top part) a chance to make its own roots, by putting the bud union below the soil, gives it more chance of coming back after fire, line-trimmers, bounding dogs etc.
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Reply #3 of 4 posted 22 OCT 22 by Robert Neil Rippetoe
Good point Margaret.
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Reply #4 of 4 posted 2 NOV 22 by MADActuary
I believe you said you are in Portland, OR - thus you don't experience much freezing weather. I would recommend you plant the bud union right at ground level or a smidge above. Usually, the plant will sink down a tad over time so that would result in a good depth. There is more than one way to skin a cat but for me, in zone 5b, roses planted with the bud union too deep don't seem to grow as well as those with the bud union at or very near ground level. They may be hardier come winter if planted deep, but they just don't seem to grow as well.

That said if you planted just a little above or below ground level - I'm sure everything would work out just fine. Happy planting!
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Discussion id : 129-006
most recent 11 SEP 21 HIDE POSTS
 
Initial post 9 SEP 21
* This post deleted by user *
Reply #1 of 6 posted 9 SEP 21 by HubertG
Some types of mulches, especially barks, draw nitrogen from the surrounding soil when they break down, so the nitrogen goes to the mulch rather than to the roses. Also, sometimes mulches when applied too thickly can prevent moisture penetration into the soil rather than conserve soil moisture.
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Reply #3 of 6 posted 11 SEP 21 by TopiaireRose
This makes sense, and explains how this began happening soon after we mulched! Thank you so much, will look carefully at the type of mulch I’m buying.
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Reply #4 of 6 posted 11 SEP 21 by TopiaireRose
This makes sense, and explains how this began happening soon after we mulched! Thank you so much, will look carefully at the type of mulch I’m buying.
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Reply #6 of 6 posted 11 SEP 21 by Palustris
I'll just point out that I put down mulch when the plants are dormant late fall or winter. Also I use wood chips that take longer to break down so last several years and enrich the soil.
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Reply #2 of 6 posted 10 SEP 21 by Lee H.
My personal experience is when leaves start to yellow and drop: start looking for mites.
I have on one occasion experienced trouble with mulch. It was a Scott product with a weed inhibitor. Killed a nice dogwood with it.
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Reply #5 of 6 posted 11 SEP 21 by TopiaireRose
Thanks I’ll check for mites too, never had an issue with mites but not discounting the possibility this time around. It’s so strange how they dropped on every bush almost simultaneously. Thanks for your input ‘
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Reply #7 of 6 posted 11 SEP 21 by Patricia Routley
You might like to take a look at RESOURCES / GLOSSARY / DOWNY MILDEW. Sudden leaf drop is mentioned there.
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Discussion id : 122-978
most recent 26 AUG 20 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 18 AUG 20 by Thymus
Hi everybody!
I’m new to Help Me Find. I am not new to gardening but I don’t have much experience with roses. I’d very much appreciate it if more experienced gardeners could offer some advice and help me find answers to my questions.

I have an arbor that is 8 ft high x 5 ft deep x 4 ft wide. It is across a path going in East-West direction. The arbor gets about 3 hours of direct sun in the morning (from 9am to 12pm) and 3 in the afternoon (from 2pm to 5pm), i.e. 6 hours total of direct sunlight plus another hour of dappled dun throughout the day. The soil is decent there: original clay enriched with a lot of compost. I would love to grow the Awakening rose over the arbor, but I am not sure if it is a good choice. Do I have enough sunlight there? Are the arbor’s dimensions appropriate for this rose? Do I need 2 of them for each side? What other roses are suitable for this arbor? Is Everblooming Cl Cécile Brünner too big for this structure? How about 2 of Aloha on each side? I would like to have a rose that reblooms, has more than 5 petals, is hardy to USA agricultural zone 6b, does well with 6 hours of sun and is disease resistant. I’d be most grateful for advise and recommendations.
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Reply #1 of 16 posted 19 AUG 20 by Margaret Furness
I can't advise about roses in the US, but there's a question you need to ask yourself: does it matter how prickly the rose is? If it does, you could try a Kathleen Harrop each side.
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Reply #2 of 16 posted 19 AUG 20 by Thymus
Thanks for the reply. I haven't given much thought to how prickly it is. Do special rose gloves protect enough or is it so prickly that is impossible to handle?

I'll take a look at Kathleen Harrop too. Thank you for the suggestion.
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Reply #3 of 16 posted 19 AUG 20 by Patricia Routley
Margaret would be thinking of walking through an arbour with the prickly canes of ‘Awakening’ at face / eye level.
I suspect ‘Cecile Brunner Climbing’ would grow too large.
Another one we would recommend in Australia would be ‘Marie Nabonnand’.
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Reply #4 of 16 posted 19 AUG 20 by Thymus
Good point about thorns at face level. Thank you. I should’ve thought of that. Marie Nabonnand is, unfortunately, not hardy to my agricultural zone. I am in 6b and it’s listed as hardy to 7b. Thant’s 2 zones warmer than where I am.

I checked out ‘Kathleen Harrop’ too. It is very pretty at would look great on that arbor, but the concern with it is that it is mentioned on Help Me Find to be susceptible to mildew. We have a rather humid climate here on the North East USA. Some of my other plants in the garden do get mildew and blackspot sometimes. I don’t spray, I just try to pick plants that are less susceptible to these problems. So far (10+ years) this approach seems to work. I think it’s a good idea to look for disease resistant roses for my garden.

Actually, this is one of the reasons I decided against 'Zéphirine Drouhin’. It is a beautiful rose and is hardy to my 6b zone, but many gardeners say it gets Mildew and blackspot. ‘Kathleen Harrop’ is listed as a sport 'Zéphirine Drouhin’. I wonder if it’s more disease resistant than the parent or it’s just the same.

How big does Everblooming Cl Cécile Brünner get? Is 10ft tall x 6ft diameter gazebo enough for it? I came across different descriptions of this rose. Some gardeners say it's a house-eater, some mention that the "Everblooming" one is more compact. The one I am considering is from Heirloom Roses. It is sold as 1996 Rambling Rose that grows up to 11ft x 10ft. It may still be a bit too big for my arbor (can it be pruned to fit the size?), but hardly a house eater. No info on thorns.
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Reply #5 of 16 posted 19 AUG 20 by Marlorena
I am across the world from you, but I only hear good reports of these 2 roses, that appear to be suitable for your zone and location in the U.S.. they are..
Viking Queen and Darlow's Enigma... perhaps you might like to take a look at those and see what you think...

Alberic Barbier is a big rambler that repeats well into autumn, with simple deadheading.. might be another..
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Reply #6 of 16 posted 19 AUG 20 by Thymus
Thank you! I'll check out the 3 that you mention right away. It's nice to have more choices.
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Reply #7 of 16 posted 22 AUG 20 by Jay-Jay
Maybe consider these roses as well: Zéphirine Drouhin thornless, repeat flowering and a good scent. Mme Alfred Carrière almost thornless, nice scent and repeats well.
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Reply #8 of 16 posted 22 AUG 20 by Thymus
Interesting that you suggested Mme Alfred Carrière just as I was reading about it. So far I've determined that it's hardy to my zone 6b. Are you well familiar with this rose? Can you tell me more about it? Is it disease resistant? How big does it grow? How many should I need for my 8 ft high x 5 ft deep x 4 ft wide arbor?

Thank you for your help
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Reply #9 of 16 posted 23 AUG 20 by Margaret Furness
Mme Alfred gets big in zone 9b, I don't know about your area. It would be worth finding out if there's a heritage rose group in your area, and asking them what does well for them. Maybe look at things that aren't nominally climbers, too. Eg, how healthy would Reine des Violettes be in your climate. (One each side, scented, thornless.)
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Reply #12 of 16 posted 23 AUG 20 by Thymus
Thank you
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Reply #10 of 16 posted 23 AUG 20 by Jay-Jay
I replied yesterday and included a link to Paul Zimmermans' video about cladding an arbor in roses, but it seems, that HMF doesn't allow links in discussions.
I'll try again... No that's not possible. Try this search in Google: Paul Zimmerman arbor roses.
Than the video will pop-up.
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Reply #11 of 16 posted 23 AUG 20 by Thymus
Thank you, Jay-Jay!

I know the video you are talking about and I have Paul Zimmerman's book too. I'm in the process of converting all this information that I have acquired into a practical project: selecting the right plant for the right climate (Z6b) and the supporting structure that I have 8x5x4 arbor). Part of the difficulty is that while I have experience with other plants I have not grown many roses. There are so many of them and they are all so beautiful and I want them all, but I'll have to narrow down my selection at some point and just choose 1-2 that really work.

Thanks again for all your help.
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Reply #13 of 16 posted 25 AUG 20 by Palustris
I grow roses in NE zone 6 also; and have for thirty years. Over the years I have done considerable "rose rustling" and observing of what roses grow well in this environment. Sadly, over the last decade or so many of the real survivors have been replaced by 'Knockout' roses such that where once driving around there was a real variety of roses seen around houses, on trellises, and fences; they are now gone. However, one of the real survivors is 'Aloha'. It is not unusual to find a huge vase shaped shrub growing with no care at all, weeds crowding in the base, and flowers at almost any time in the summer.

So, I planted 'Aloha' up against a wall in a prominent location by the entrance to my house. It has proven to be a terrific rose with beautiful large pink flowers in profusion from June into July and occasional flushes during the summer and fall. Over time, given no pruning, it will make a huge shrub about 6' - 7' with arching canes. My own plant almost five years old has not shown a tendency to send out long 6' canes yet, but is still a huge shrub with the tendency to grow wide. I keep it in check through pruning and hope it will send out some long canes if we ever get any rain (.55" for the last two months.) I would only plant two 'Aloha' on your trellis: one on each side and it might take a while for them to meet at the top.

I have yet to see a huge 'Awakening'. My own plants have never grown larger than a medium sized shrub. 'New Dawn' from which it sported, is another true survivor. There are still some 'New Dawns' around despite the plague of 'Knockout' roses. This is a real climber capable of putting out 8' canes in a season. I would think that 2 plants would be plenty on your trellis and would grow into a nice display after a few years.

There are many ramblers that will grow beautifully on a large trellis like yours, but they are once blooming.
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Reply #14 of 16 posted 25 AUG 20 by Thymus
Thank you so much for your detailed response, Palustris! It is particularly valuable since you garden in the same agricultural zone as I do and you have much more experience with roses than I have.

I was hoping that someone would share some insights about ‘Aloha’. I think this rose is absolutely stunning and I would be very happy if it grew in my garden. I agree that it is a whole lot more exquisite choice than the run-of-the-mill ‘Knockout’ roses.

Your input on ‘Awakening’ and ‘New Dawn’ is priceless! I like them both, but I get very different information on their growth habits based on where they are grown. Again, since you grow yours in z6 NE, USA, your experience is the most applicable to my situation.

What other roses are your favorites? If you feel like sharing your opinion on other roses that you grow (including the once blooming ramblers:) and what their growing patterns are in our climate — I’d very much appreciate it. Have you had any experience with some of the roses mentioned in this thread, like ‘Everblooming Cl Cécile Brünner’, ’Viking Queen’, ’Mme Alfred Carrière’ ?
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Reply #15 of 16 posted 26 AUG 20 by Palustris
Well, I am probably not the best person to advise on reblooming large flowered climbers, since I have mostly focused on ramblers for the last couple of decades. Those LFC that I grow are almost all bred by Kordes since their commitment to reliable landscape plants suites my needs perfectly.

So, for Kordes repeat flowering climbers I have found reliable are 'Lavender Lassie', 'Amadeus', and 'Illusion.'

'Lavender Lassie' I found growing along a 6' tall split rail fence in my neighborhood. I was amazed at the clean foliage, the nice erect canes, and the beautiful old rose shaped pink flowers with a touch of lavender. As a Hybrid Musk it only grows to about 7', but is very reliable and free flowering.

'Amadeus', and 'Illusion' are different shades of red and, again, very reliable growers, with good foliage and excellent repeat bloom. I believe that 'Illusion' is classified as a shrub, but both these roses put out long canes with 'Amadeus' perhaps a little more of a climber with slightly longer canes.

'Compassion' by Harkness is a wonderful rose with beautiful flowers that seems to repeat continuously. For me it stays about 6' tall, unfortunately, since that could be too short for your trellis.

'Aloha' we have already discussed and still among the best repeat flowering roses.

When it comes to once flowering climbing roses, the choices are very broad from large shrubs, to pillar roses, to the wild growing ramblers. One reason I have so many ramblers is that they are "survivors." These are the roses that survive without any particular care and so it is still possible to find roses that have been in the same spot for 100 years. I have found them growing all over Cape Cod and New England. They propagate easily from cuttings or by layering.

These once blooming roses would require quite a bit of maintenance to keep them orderly on a trellis. My 'American Pillar' easily grows ten to twelve foot canes that are stiff and upright. So, for ramblers I can recommend 'Debutante' a very light pink; 'Ghislaine de Feligonde' a yellow/orange blend that might not be too large for your trellis; 'Maid Marion' a deep pink single that would probably be fine on your trellis; 'Rose-Marie Viaud' a mauve rose if placed on one side of the trellis can offer a contrast to, maybe, a pink rose or yellow rose on the other side; 'Tausendschon' a reliable rambler that doesn't get too large, but whose flowers are not the best; and 'Nokomis' which I really love for its pink flowers that offer a charming effect when the plant is seen at a distance.

I hope this helps a little. Send me a PM if you need a source for 'Debutante' or 'Maid Marion' or any of the other roses bred by Michael Walsh.
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Reply #16 of 16 posted 26 AUG 20 by Thymus
Thank you very much, Palustris, for sharing your experience so generously. It does help a lot. I have been considering adding some Kordes roses to my garden. So, your feedback on them is quite timely. I’m glad you confirm that they have healthy looking foliage and pretty flowers. The info on 'Compassion' and once blooming ramblers is very useful too. And also thank you very much for your offer for Michael Walsh roses. I will definitely keep it in mind since I’m considering adding some healthy and vigorous ramblers to my garden in the next couple of years.
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