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Joe
most recent 2 days ago SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 3 JAN 22 by Patricia Routley
Growing a fair few of the fringed carnation-like “pinks” here, Sherri’s words “ "Red Bluff Oakhill Cemetary, Leak Grave, MP Carnation-like", make me think of my Fimbriata (hybrid china, Jacques, 1827). Photos will be interesting.
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Reply #1 of 8 posted 4 JAN 22 by Margaret Furness
Thinking again about the South Australian mini-China ("Hahndorf midwife's", "Ebenezer-Habermann"). Do "Oakington Ruby" and "Sherri Berglund's" (if it has one) lose the white eye as the flower darkens with age?
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Reply #3 of 8 posted 1 MAR 22 by Paul Barden
Oakington Ruby loses the white center with age, yes. I saw your photos of "Midwife" and that plant certainly seems to be the same as what we grow here as Oakington Ruby.
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Reply #4 of 8 posted 1 MAR 22 by Margaret Furness
Thank you - I'm pleased we have a rose which has been a very significant parent.
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Reply #2 of 8 posted 1 MAR 22 by Paul Barden
I just looked at your photos of Fimbriata. Sherri's plant is a dwarf rose, and the blooms rarely exceed 3/4 inch in diameter.
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Reply #5 of 8 posted 6 days ago by Joe
Hi Paul,
Have you noticed if your "Red Bluff Oakhill Cemetary" set hips? I wanted to use Oakington Ruby as a seed parent but it’s pretty hard to find. Hoping to substitute with RBOC instead.
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Reply #6 of 8 posted 6 days ago by Paul Barden
Red Bluff Oakhill dwarf China doesn't set seeds, no. At least it never has for me.
Oakington Ruby shouldn't be too hard to find. Have you asked Burling? I sent her a load of cuttings about 2 years ago.
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Reply #7 of 8 posted 2 days ago by Joe
Thank you, Paul! Burling had it. I'm hoping to breed something like your "Priscilla Plumbbob/81-02-01" out of it
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Reply #8 of 8 posted 2 days ago by Paul Barden
Good luck. Be smart and choose a highly disease resistant variety to mate it with. Oakington Ruby is extremely Blackspot prone, and it gladly passes that trait on to most of its offspring if you're not careful.
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most recent 8 days ago SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 25 JUL 18 by Singularly Beautiful Roses
Produces hips. One OP seedling so far. Smaller in diameter and more petals than Rouletii.
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Reply #1 of 3 posted 25 JUL 18 by Patricia Routley
I have added your comments to the main page.
Your photo seems to be a little mottled. Has anyone considered
Bicolor (lawrenciana, Laffay, 1836) or
Jenny (Lawrencia, Unknown, 1836)
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Reply #2 of 3 posted 9 days ago by Joe
How did your OP seedling turn out? And did ever get anymore from Abbot and Burns?
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Reply #3 of 3 posted 8 days ago by Singularly Beautiful Roses
Joe;
I was unable to raise it to maturity. I've had several micro type seedlings, but have found them hard to keep alive. One little mistake with water and disaster.
Stephen
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most recent 10 APR 10 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 20 MAY 09 by Joe
This rose has a nice bloom most of the time and is a very vibrant yellow. The bloom color can last for two weeks. Under the right condition of course. The plant itself takes a while to get established but once it does, it grows pretty dense and compact.
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Reply #1 of 1 posted 10 APR 10 by HMF Admin
Thanks Joe !
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most recent 22 AUG 09 SHOW ALL
 
Initial post 5 AUG 09 by Joe
Hey Kim,
How are you doing? I was wondering how your Dottie Louis X R. Fedtschenkoana and your Mutabilis hyrbids are coming along?
Joe
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Reply #1 of 6 posted 10 AUG 09 by Kim Rupert
Hi Joe, I had a lot of hip failures when the high heat hit, which really isn't a bad thing. I really didn't want to have to process and plant all the crosses I maniacly made! The Dottie Louise X Fedtschenkoana first generation hybrids are doing well, thanks. They've done their thing and refused pollen put on them. I have gotten a number of very pretty plants from last year's cross of 1-72-1, Ralph Moore's sister seedling of Rise'n Shine with Dottie Louise X Fed. pollen on it. They run the gamut, like the DLXFED ones do, from nearly thornless to highly prickled. All have beautiful foliage ranging from gray green through very blue to burgundy. Most are upright, vigorous plants but two are ferny, mounding plants which are very airy. I'm very pleased with how disease resistant they've been now they are potted in a more coastal climate where mildew is much more of a problem. Only one has bloomed so far, with small, double, open blooms which look a great deal like Little Darling.

Most of the hips fell off Mutabilis, but there are three remaining which I hope will hang on a few weeks longer. I've not audited to see which have held with Mutabilis' pollen. I'm afraid to see how many I'm going to have to work with at the end of summer!

What fun things have you been producing since we last spoke?

Thanks!

Kim
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Reply #2 of 6 posted 11 AUG 09 by Joe
Hey Kim,
Sorry to hear about all your hip loss, I've had some of the same issues too. But I'm glad to hear that the crossess from 1-72-1 are doing well. They sound very diverse, how interesting! Can't wait hear about how the others bloom and behave. My seeds germinated early in the summer but soon died due to the heat and a broken irrigation sysetm so I haven't produced anything this summer but I am collecting a lot of Pollen from Louis-philippe to put on "Scarlet Moss" and "Oakington Ruby" in the fall. Anyway, if any new developements come up with your hybrids, I'd be really excited to hear them.
Thanks,
Joe
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Reply #3 of 6 posted 13 AUG 09 by Kim Rupert
Joe, ideally, you want all the germination to occur before your temperatures reach the seventy degree levels. Rose seed germinate even during freezing weather and the young seedlings are quite frost tolerant until they generate their real rose leaves. I don't know if it's suitable for where you are, but here in Southern California I begin harvesting hips now as they ripen, clean them and either put them in ziploc bags on slightly damp paper toweling, or plant the special ones in peat pellets placed in ziploc bags, then hold them in the refridgerator until about Thanksgiving. I chose then to plant because years ago when I began playing with raising seed, that was when I had time. Most germinate here before the high temps and are often large enough to transplant to larger pots making them easier to hold over through the bellows of hell heat.

Your idea of putting the Louis Phillipe on Scarlet Moss and Oakington Ruby sounds interesting. There's no telling what you may create! That will be interesting to follow. Thanks! Kim
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Reply #4 of 6 posted 20 AUG 09 by Joe
Hey Kim,
Thanks, I didn't know I should try to germinate rose seeds before the temperature hits the seventies. I've tried the paper towel in a ziploc method and I keep getting mold, how do you prevent that? I've tried putting a little peroxide in there and sometimes it works, but sometimes isn't enough for me. Do you have a different method? By the way, your 'Softee X Basye's Legacy' is vey interesting, which leads me to my next question, how does breeding with "Bayse's Legacy" turn out?
Thanks,
Joe
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Reply #5 of 6 posted 22 AUG 09 by Kim Rupert
Hi Joe, in the "good old days", you could buy Captan, which prevented all the molds and fungi from destroying your seeds and seedlings. Those days are gone, perhaps for the better? I put the hips from the same cross in the blender, shake in some Ajax or Comet with bleach, and liquefy. That cleans the trash from the, leaving them clean, sterilized seed which I then dump in a strainer and flush under the faucet to rinse. I allow them to drip dry then, if there are only a few of the cross, I plant each one in a peat pellet, put them in a large enough zip loc baggie in the refrigerator. If there are many, I'll put them in dampened peat moss in a baggie with a label inside the bag so it doesn't get lost or rubbed off. I try to plant around Thanksgiving as that's when the weather is best for it here, and that was usually the end of my time until after New Year and I could remember to do it because of the Holiday. The bleach in the cleanser seems to be enough to clean the seed and the peat often retards its growth. Sometimes, there is a bit of mold, but once they are planted, that often clears up. I bet that mold helps break down the seed coat. For other ideas, Google Rose Hybridizers Association and read their ideas. Interesting stuff!
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Reply #6 of 6 posted 22 AUG 09 by Kim Rupert
Sorry about that, I forgot the second question! I've found using Basye's Legacy as a seed parent isn't a great idea. It begins self pollinating before I can usually get to it to boink it with something else. Many of its offspring are selfs and many are either weak or once blooming. Collecting its pollen is very easy and there is a lot of it. Putting it on other roses makes seeing hybrids MUCH easier and eliminates the possibilities of Legacy selfs. The results are interesting. I've had some varieties which would only result in once blooming plants. Two which come to mind are Loving Touch and Anne Harkness. Everything I've gotten from those two and Legacy have been once blooming. Ralph Moore got many once bloomers from Anytime and Legacy. Personally, I like the idea of using Legacy primarily with minis. Your chances of creating more dwarf, controlled growth, repeat blooming plants SHOULD be greater.

I'm glad you enjoy Softee X Legacy. It has a nice architecture. Its selfs are all totally smooth and many resemble the parent. A few don't, but all are smaller, thornless plants. I've kept a few of the first generation selfs to play with figuring they'd be more homogenous for the characteristics. I hope! I LIKE thornless. I'm tired of "giving blood" while gardening. In my more youthful days, before steriodal ointments to control dermatitis, and when I had lovely higher cholesterol, snagging myself in the garden wasn't an issue as it would take a major snag to really bleed, and it was thick enough to not be that big a deal. Steriods cause skin atrophy, making it thinner. Lower cholesterol makes your blood thinner and more watery. Combine the two and you have all the makings of a Hollywood gross-out movie!
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