HELPMEFIND PLANTS COMMERCIAL NON-COMMERCIAL RESOURCES EVENTS PEOPLE RATINGS
|
|
|
'Vineyard Song' rose Reviews & Comments
-
-
|
Available from - Rogue Valley Roses
roguevalleyroses.com
|
REPLY
|
-
-
|
Said to be diploid in the paper 'Genotyping-by-sequencing application on diploid rose and a resulting high-density SNP-based consensus map'
|
REPLY
|
-
-
|
I ordered Vineyard song, and it arrived extremely fragile and tiny from Heirloom.
It's looking very sick- Any tips to revive something so small would be appreciated!
|
REPLY
|
Reply
#1 of 11 posted
22 MAY 09 by
 Cass
|
First, remove all blooms. Disbudding allows a very small rose to use its energies for growth. Second, repot it from the band into a 1 gallon nursery can using a fine quality potting soil. Don't use MiracleGrow soil. Many report that it can burn tender roots. I always pot deep, often burying the crown of the plant. Deep-planting protects the canes from drying out. You will have to judge how to do this with your plant. If it is already planted deep in the band, this may be unnecessary. Third, water it in well but do not fertilize. Fine quality potting soils have enough nutrients for a month or so. Place the pot in filtered light out of the wind where you can keep an eye on it and keep the soil just moist. This is the season for top growth, so you should see new growth within 10 to 14 days. Once the new growth is 2 inches long or so, you can fertilize using a water soluble fertilizer diluted to 1/3 to 1/2 strength. If you live where fish emulsion is common, use fish emulsion half strength. Because of hazards in my garden, I usually wait until after my plant has been repotted a second time into a 5 gallon can before planting out in the garden. If you have a safe, civilized garden, free from stampeding dogs and voracious rodents, you can plant out after the rose is a foot to 15 inches high.
|
REPLY
|
Reply
#2 of 11 posted
22 MAY 09 by
Kat Lee
|
Hi! & Thanks so much! It hasn't had any buds yet, but I have (reluctantly!) been snapping off buds on other plants I've ordered. I did plant it in a gallon pot, but I'm wondering if maybe I mixed 1/2 potting mix with 1/2 miracle grow brand peat moss. I'll have to get it out of that dirt & start over.
Also, the leaves (all four of them!) are blackspotty. Do I spray it, or will that harm it further?
|
REPLY
|
Reply
#3 of 11 posted
22 MAY 09 by
Cass
|
Where are you located? If you live where blackspot is a constant and you are committed to spraying, then you can spray. Bands are often sprayed at nurseries, so this is nothing new. If you live in California where blackspot is uncommon, don't bother to spray. Let the leaves drop. The new ones won't have blackspot (they'll have powdery mildew, in my experience).
When you say potting mix...do you mean potting soil and not planting mix? And may I ask why you added peat moss?
|
REPLY
|
Reply
#4 of 11 posted
22 MAY 09 by
Kat Lee
|
Hi! Blackspot is terrible here- georgia 7b.
Oops, yep, potting soil. My mother adds peat to all her dirt, and the potting soil I bought felt very woody, so I wanted to soften it up a bit. It has a great feel. Most of the time things do good here in the ground with 1/3 potting soil, 1/3 peat, 1/4 native soil (which is acidic!)
|
REPLY
|
Reply
#5 of 11 posted
22 MAY 09 by
Cass
|
By all means, use what works....but just so you know....peat moss is also very acid, so I'm surprised you add it to already acid soils. I avoid peat moss because my soils are already very acid and because we have no rain for 6 months a year. We have a very hard time keeping rehydrating peat moss if it dries out.
|
REPLY
|
Reply
#6 of 11 posted
22 MAY 09 by
Kat Lee
|
I didn't know that about peat! Yikes. All of my Heirloom plants are tiny; my roses from Roses Unlimited and Vintage are already huge. The heirloom plants are needing extra care. I'll repot them all this weekend.
|
REPLY
|
|
Sorry, but I have to add my two cents worth on potting soil, peat, etc. I agree 100% with Cass on Miracle Grow potting soil -- it is a highly variable product that is often very salty causing root and leaf burn. Most potting soils manufactured these days use sizeable amounts of compost, usually from a local municipality. Compost can be pure perfection, but it can also be your worst nightmare, depending on the materials composted and how well the composting was done. Avoid potting soils with compost more than 10% by volume. Peat moss is increasingly expensive but a wonderful component of potting soils because it is NOT salty. It does hold lots of water and does have a mildly acidic reaction, but not generally too acidic unless you are over 75% peat by volume.
Alas, potting soil labeling laws are lousy, regulated by the states and tell consumers almost nothing about the contents. In addition, since potting soil is basically freight in a bag, potting soil formulas vary widely from region to region. Miracle Grow potting soil in California is not the same as it is in Georgia. It should have similar physical and chemical properties, but only within a fairly broad range. My advice is find a good, high quality local brand that is made consistently and stick to it. It's worth paying a premium for good potting soil, though price is not an indicator of quality (just look at Miracle Grow!). Also, make your own compost if you can. You know what it's been made from and how well it's been composted. This is the best soil amendment and fertilizer you can get.
I ran a potting soil and fertilizer company for many years, by the way. The stories I could tell you about the ingredients of many products on the market! It would curl your hair!!
|
REPLY
|
Reply
#8 of 11 posted
22 MAY 09 by
Cass
|
Jeff, I'm glad I took a second to read your profile. SuperSoil was my potting soil of choice for years.
|
REPLY
|
|
Supersoil was my potting soil of choice for many years as well. It's been very inconsistent for the last several months. I'm still looking for a decent substitute.
I will forgo asking Jeff about,
"the ingredients of many products on the market! It would curl your hair!!"
As you know Cass, my hair is already curly enough. ;-) hehehe
|
REPLY
|
|
Scotts owns Supersoil now. I don't recognize the potting soil product anymore. It looks completely different than the old formula. Down where you live, I don't know what to recommend. If you can get EB Stone Edna's Best potting soil, it is a good, safe bet. I wouldn't touch any Kellogg's product without checking to be sure there were no biosolids (sewage sludge) on the ingredients list. The bargain brands in general are of such poor quality I wouldn't touch them. Where's the bargain in a potting soil that inhibits growth?
The big problem is there are almost no standards of quality for consumers to rely on. The state doesn't consider potting soils and soil amendments a high consumer protection priority. Heck, they don't even care if you use sewage sludge or CCA-treated wood in your products much less make you disclose it on the package. The only thing the state seems to care about is whether you put less than the stated volume in the bag. And even that only infrequently regulated.
Good luck finding a quality potting soil. You'll need all the luck you can get!
|
REPLY
|
|
Agree to the discussion above. MiracleGro Moisture Control is decent in my Chicagoland (mostly peatmoss and lime to achieve neutral pH). But cheaper Schultz potting soil was a disaster for the 10 own-roots I bought this past summer. Schultz potting soil is "compost forest products", or mostly ground-up bark, with zero nutrients.
Then I bought Jiffy potting soil (for seedlings) and that was bad, too dense. The best potting soil is made from fluffy pine-fines (more air for root-growth), but pine-fines potting soil is hard to find, and only sold to nurseries.
Recently I was overjoyed to find Burpee potting soil for seedling, made from 100% coco-coir, which is fluffier for rooting roses. Sold for $5 at Mernards but that was sold out fast in spring.
|
REPLY
|
-
-
Initial post
27 MAY 13 by
Chris
|
minimal dieback in one 5A.
heavy snow winter.
|
REPLY
|
|
|
